Lee Ayres
A Trip Around the Perimeter of the Continental United States
The “Border Tour” took place in eight segments over a period of four years, beginning in the summer of
2003 and ending in the summer of 2007. We drove 12,000 miles along the borders of the United States. We drove another 14,000 miles and took two flights to the east coast to begin and end each segment. My wife, Shelley, hoped to do the Border Tour in one trip, but we had a business to run, and it proved to be helpful to have time between trips to recover and plan for the next trip. Shelley exercised her cancer survivor rights to insist on doing all of the driving. Our trip notes and photos could fill several binders. To craft an article for the Wichita East Class of 1960 website and my family, we decided on three parts to our story:
1) How the Border Tour came about
2)Our most memorable experiences
3)Places we would revisit if/when circumstances permit
How the Border Tour Came About
Shelley encountered breast cancer. It was a brutal experience: the fear, surgery, chemo and radiation therapies. The experience became the impetus for planning and completing the Border Tour.
Here is the timeline:
- October, 2000: A preliminary diagnosis of Shelley’s breast cancer.
- December 7, 2000: Truly, a “day that will live in infamy,” to quote FDR. The biopsy result was positive. Surgery was delayed due to the holidays and the surgeon’s schedule.
- January 8, 2001:The surgeon removed 14 lymph nodes and a 1.8 centimeter tumor. Stage 1. But, whoops, the oncologist – who was called the “quarterback” – called for a second surgery to increase the “margin of safety” between the tumor and healthy tissue; the surgery took place on May 1, 2001, after the chemotherapy was underway.
- February 1, 2001: Chemotherapy treatments began. Shelley received about 24 treatments over a 6+ month period. Each cycle had two treatments, a week apart, followed by a two-week recovery period before the next treatment took place. Each session was two hours long. Later, her white blood cell level dropped dangerously low. Self-injected Neupogen, subcutaneously, was prescribed to restore her white cell count.
- August 18, 2001: Radiation therapy began. It lasted four weeks with one treatment per week. Shelley was having a radiation treatment on September 11, the day World Trade Center was struck by two airplanes, followed by an attack on the Pentagon and the crash of flight 93 in Pennsylvania. There was panic in the cancer clinic waiting room as people tried to understand the events and check the status of loved ones.
It was during these challenging nine months that I encouraged Shelley make a list of things to look for forward to. She came up with three:
-
- Outlive Sam (her dog)
- Drive the border of the United States
- Grow old with you
Sam died in November, 2001. The Border Tour ended in July, 2007. We continue to grow older together 21 years later.
Our Most Memorable Experiences
Presented in four parts: West Coast, East Coast, Part 1
Southern Border, and Northern Border, Part 2
West Coast: Port Townsend, WA to Coronado Island, CA
“Ultimate Driving Machine:” We took delivery of a 2004 BMW 330ci metallic steel blue, convertible with a dark blue top in June, 2003. In August we drove to the Canadian Border with stops in Sacramento, CA, to see son Wes; Corvallis, OR, to see cousin Fred Horne; and Salem, OR, to see cousin Joe Player. We stayed at the Smuggler’s Inn in Blaine, WA, on the Canadian Border. Then on to Victoria BC.
Ferry to Port Angeles, WA: After we left Victoria BC for the US, we received a call from the landscape contractor working at our home. I recall drawing diagrams of change orders as we crossed the Strait of Juan de Fuca.
Anacortes, WA: Ferry to the Orcas Islands. Fantastic crab cakes at the Rosario Resort, Eastsound, WA. Visited Frida
y Harbor & Roche Harbor, an international yacht harbor. (at left)
Olympia, WA: Capital of WA. We were bombed by a seagull with the top down.
Long Beach, WA: We drove on the beach. (at right)
Astoria, OR: Bridge over the Columbia River.
Seaside, OR: End of Lewis & Clark expedition. Charming community. (below)
Newport, OR: Oregon Aquarium. Scene of Shelley and daughter Ashley becoming “barf buddies” during a deep-sea fishing trip in a ’96 visit.
Gold Beach, OR: “Jet boat” ride up the Rogue River. Bought a myrtle-wood salad bowl which we still use every day!
Brookings, OR: Location of Capella by the Sea, Azalea P
ark, commissioned by Elmo Williams, retired movie director, to honor his wife Lorraine. We
learned about the project from the project architect, David McKee, of Fayetteville, AR, protege of E. Fay Jones, who in turn was a protege of Frank Lloyd Wright. When the chapel was under construction, Elmo shared a bottle of wine with us on his ocean-view deck. We returned for the grand opening and dedication.
Shelter Cove, CA: Black Sands Beach. A strange sight.
Eureka, CA: Visit with the City Manager; recall her vivid language, “My eyes are turning yellow.” Visited Eureka Community College where son Wes attended for a year. The Carson Mansion was one of the historic homes we saw. (photo at right)
Ferndale, CA: We drove to Bear Mountain Road on top of a nearby ridge to get a better cellphone connection. Cows blocked the road.
Fort Bragg, CA: Visit with Shelley’s Uncle Burt. Signed loan papers at the Bank of America branch.
Fort Ross, CA: Founded by the Russians in 1812, before purchase of Alaska (Seward’s Folly)
Sea Ranch, CA: Renowned master-planned community. Years later, we stopped here for lunch with Shelley’s mom, Lolita Patterson, when we took her to visit Uncle Burt.
Stinson Beach, CA: Spectacular ocean views along Highway 1
San Rafael, CA: Embassy Suites – Shelley experienced food poisoning from a room service seafood salad. Lee barfed at a Taco Bell in Daly City, CA the next day.
Carmel-By-the-Sea, CA: Carmel Highlands Hyatt, celebratory dinner overlooking the Pacific Ocean after the first segment of the Border Tour.
Big Sur: Lunch at Nepenthe overlooking the Pacific Ocean; bought chimes for our home. Bixby Bridge is nearby. (at left)
Cambria, CA: Moonrock Beach
Santa Barbara, CA: Stayed with Bob & Jan Kates, longtime friend and investment partner; we first met in Sunnyvale, CA.
Rancho Palos Verdes, CA: Wayfarers Chapel, designed by Lloyd Wright (son of Frank) Stunning!
Coronado Island, CA: Stayed at the Coronado Marriot; brunch at Hotel del Coronado
East Coast: Miami, FL to Bangor, ME
Miami, Florida: Flew in from New Orleans. Rented a car. Visited with Samantha Harter, daughter of friend Mike Harter in Fresno, CA. She had a Spanish publication and translation business; married an event lighting expert from Argentina.
Vero Beach, FL: Stayed at the Driftwood Inn on the ocean, room with a spiral staircase to a loft; a favorite from when Lee lived in Titusville, FL, circa 1967-1973.
Titusville, FL: Visited Wynette Stoner, team member when Lee served as City Manager, and her husband, Jerry. We stayed with Ron & Lillian Goigel, Marine Technology venture owner. We met John Gandy, former Mayor, at the Dixie Crossing restaurant for 
dinner.
Fernandina Beach, FL: Charming, iconic photo of birds on the beach, one walking in the opposite direction of flock. (at right)
Brunswick, GA: Setting for “First Draw” chapter in the book, Man in Full by Tom Wolfe
Savanah, GA: Cousin Debbie Ayres Cox played a memorable “How Great Thou Art” on the piano at her church. Years later, we laughed when we saw a campaign billboard for Spencer Lawton, District Attorney, who was ridiculed in the book, “Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil”.
Charleston, SC: Visited cousin Carolyn Horne Kolconay and her husband Rolf. Attended a Vince Guaraldi concert He was the composer for the Charlie Brown Christmas movies. He was San Francisco musician whose recent passing was reported on CBS Sunday Morning.
Myrtle Beach, SC: I discovered I lost my cell phone during a walk on the beach. Minutes later, son Brad called Shelley to report the phone had been found and provided us with the name and number of the person who found it. Turns out the Good Samaritan, a Valspar Paint representative, called the phone number of my most recent call, which happened to be my son Brad! Grateful my phone back then did not require a password and that the finder was honest!
Charlotte, SC: Stayed with long-time friend, Kim Martin, widow of Richard Martin, and her friend. We caravanned with them to the Outer-banks.
Ocracoke, NC: Charming community. Great restaurant, Café Atlantic
Duck, NC: Stayed at the Sanderling Resort. When Kim’s friend coughed up blood, Kim drove him to the hospital in Charlotte. He died of a heart attack later. She now spends most of her time on cruises with friend Bruce in an effort to live a less stressful life.
Virginia Beach, VA: We were very impressed with the appearance and behavior of the people attending the Neptune Festival on the boardwalk – probably Navy personnel. (at left)
Washington, DC: Stayed with Bob Sisson, City Manager of Fairfax, VA who took us on a boat ride on the Potomac River with Gene Carter. Visited Glenna Stearman Park and her husband Joel. Night tour of the monuments conducted by cousin Fred II and his wife Francoise. Spectacular!
Annapolis, MA: Capital of Maryland – unbelievably narrow, winding streets
Renoboth Beach, DE: Bridge over the Delaware River, high and long. Charming
Cape May, NJ: A vibrant, seaside retirement community
Atlantic City, NJ: A city in decline. Site of Miss America pageant when I was growing up
Oaklyn, NJ: Later, in 2010, we explored my childhood neighborhood and attended the 50th reunion of the Collingswood High Class of 1960; saw at least 10 people from my childhood in Oaklyn. A blast!
Toms River, NJ: A curiously cold culture
Oakland, NJ: Stayed with Pete and Bern Macagne, friends from US Army days at Fort Gordon, GA. Bern asked when we first met. “Are there still Indians in Oklahoma?”
New York City, NY: Drove the George Washington Bridge; found the A
vis office to return the rental car. Stayed at the Marriott Marquis on Times Square. Saw “Lion King.” Terrific! Enroute – Western PA: US Open Golf at Oakmont CC.
Falling Water, near Pittsburg, PA: Frank Lloyd Wright home (at right)
Mystic Harbor, CT: Lunch on the harbor. A fine nautical museum.
Newport, RI: We could almost hear the click of a mallet hitting a croquet ball in front of the stately mansions.
Providence, RI: Great visit at Dunkin Donuts with Rachel, widow of Don Chivers, the extraordinary Resident Manager of Sutter Village in Modesto, CA. Toured the Port of Providence, acquired by former City Manager friend Ray Meador during the reign of the infamous Mayor Buddy Cianci. I knew Buddy at Fort Gordon, GA in 1968. Ten years later, on national TV, he cast the votes for the State of Rhode Island at the 1978 Republican Convention. I saw him in action on TV from home as Overland Park KS City Manager.
Cape Cod, MA: We rented scooters and located Chappaquiddick, site of the death of Senator Ted Kennedy’s suspected lover.
Boston, MA: Stayed with Gene Carter and walked around Spy Pond.
Bar Harbor, ME: Lovely city park, large number of well-appointed art galleries, bought beautiful red vase (broken by a playful cat years later) and a metal sculpture-based table.
Halifax, NS: Ferry ride from Bar Harbor. Stayed at Marriott Hotel. Delightfully orderly, even the structure of the local government.
Editor’s Note: Part II of the Ayres’ Border Tour will be published here next week.
Fabulous 2004 Beemer convertible. Those trips were fun to read about in real time I recall, too. You both also demonstrate what we learned in 1999 from dual cancers: no one is guaranteed a pass in life. You learn from disease to be grateful. After a near-fatal medical misadventure in the mid-80s, my thought was not failing to see my daughter to maturity or to grow old with my wife. My thought was relief that I hadn’t wasted time leaving a job I loathed. Think of all the therapy bills we all save from such insights?
Great stories and recollections. Thanks. Gene C