Fred Elder, Hiking the Grand Canyon

 

I have hiked to the bottom of the Grand Canyon twice.  The first time (March 2009) I was alone and the second time (April 2010) I was accompanied by a college friend, his daughter and the daughter’s friend. On both occasions, I went down the South Kaibab Trail, spent the night at the bottom and returned via the Bright Angel Trail.  On the first trip, I spent the night at Bright Angel Campground in a sleeping bag I carried with me.  On the second trip, we spent the night at a small, rental cabin at Phantom Ranch.  When I was alone, I had a supper that traveled down in my back pack, and heated on a camp stove which also came down in my back pack.  When I was with others, we ate at Phantom Ranch at the bottom of the canyon.  Both hikes were essentially the same, but the following story has me sleeping at the Bright Angel Campground.

An airplane and rental car got me to the south rim of the Grand Canyon, where several overnight accommodations are available.   After checking in for the over-night accommodations at the South Rim, one must make one’s way to the Park Service office and check in for the campsite (or cabin) at the bottom of the Grand Canyon.  (Due to the popularity of this hike, it is difficult to obtain the required overnight reservation for the bottom.)

Bright and early the next morning, I went to the near-by bus stop and caught the bus to the start of the South Kaibab Trail.  Once off the bus, it is time to don the backpack, tighten the shoe laces and drop over the rim of the canyon.

The trail is immediately steep and remains so for much of the way to the bottom.  Because of the steepness, there are many switchbacks.  The scenery is filled with vivid colors of differing rocks, many are rust red, and the views are endless.  But the path requires vigilance as there are rocks and sharp drop-offs in many locations.  The first recognized point of interest is Ooh AAH Point (0.9 miles), where one can see forever, but those views do not yet include any sign of the Colorado River.  Each step down, one gets slightly warmer as the elevation changes from the canyon rim (7,000 ft above sea level) to the Colorado River (2,539 ft above sea level). The temperature at canyon bottom is typically 20 to 30 degrees Fahrenheit higher than the temperature at the rim.  The next landmark is Cedar Ridge (1.5 miles), where juniper trees offer some welcome shade and where one first can see a tiny blue ribbon that will gradually emerge as the Colorado River.  The next named point of interest is Skeleton Point (3.0 miles), where the trail delves even deeper into the heart of the canyon, opening views to millennia of geologic change.  The hike continues and the temperature continues to rise as one reaches Tonto Plateau Overlook (4.7 miles). Here one gets a reprieve from steeper sections of the descent while enjoying views of the rugged plateau.  The next named point is The Corkscrew (7.2 miles) with its series of steep switchbacks and treacherous precipices at the very edge of a narrowing trail.  Finally, one arrives at Black Bridge (7.8 miles), which spans the rushing Colorado River.  One crosses the river and walks through the shade of cottonwood trees on the final stretch to Phantom Ranch, which has a store (of limited wares), a restaurant (one preset menu for which one must make reservations at the rim before descending), Bright Angel Campground, shower, toilet facilities, and a limited number of cabins for overnight stay (requiring a reservation weeks prior to the hike).  The Phantom Ranch history is interesting.  Per Wikipedia,

Fifty-three-year-old Mary Jane Colter, architect for Fred Harvey Co.  and the Santa Fe Railroad, was given the assignment to design a small group of rustic stone cabins on the north side of the Colorado River near the mouth of Bright Angel Creek. She called it Phantom Ranch. The ranch was completed in 1922. The rustic cabins and main lodge are built of wood and native stone and fit in with the natural beauty and solitude of the setting.

After I reached the bottom and enjoyed a cool drink and a short rest, it was time to check in, get my actual campsite assignment and prepare for the evening.  That did not take long and soon I was at my assigned campsite at Bright Angel Campground.  My sleeping space was not large, but there was no one immediately near me.  After a warm meal (courtesy of my backpacker’s stove) it was time for sleep.  I had previously rolled out my sleeping bag and covered it with a bivouac sack (no tent, to save weight). 

Night was an unforgettable experience.  There I was – absolute darkness, no sound and a beautiful sky filled with bright and fascinating stars and star shapes.  There was literally nothing between me and those stars other than crisp, clean air.  No ceiling, no tent – nothing man-made.  The feeling defies words. In spite of my being tired from walking down the South Kaibab Trail, it was difficult to go to sleep because of the amazing views and complete solitude, not to mention the feeling of accomplishment I felt for successfully completing this phase of my hike.

The next morning dawned early as I fired up the stove for breakfast (oatmeal and a boiled egg) and rolled up the sleeping bag.  After breakfast and some quick repacking of the backpack, it was nearing 7:30 and time to start up Bright Angel Trail.  Another long walking day awaited.

A walk near the Colorado River (downstream) of about two miles brought me to Silver Bridge (a pedestrian only suspension bridge), marking the start of Bright Angel Trail.  Across the bridge one could see the River Resthouse. From there begins the upward climb out of the canyon on hot and dusty trails with no shade in sight.  The early part of the trail is the least steep, but the final part of the trail to its terminus at the south rim is very steep and filled with switchbacks.

About 3.1 miles from the river, one comes to Havasupai Gardens.  (Until November of 2022, this area was known as Indian Gardens.)  It is a true oasis on the otherwise hot and dusty trail.  A spring and numerous cottonwood trees provide a place to rest and gather energy for the remaining hike to the south rim. 

At 4.9 miles from the river, one encounters Three Mile Resthouse.  This is a rock structure where one can escape the blazing sun and where one can obtain drinking water.  Near the rock structure is a toilet facility.

At 6.4 miles from the river, one arrives at Mile and-a-Half Resthouse, another rock structure, quite similar to the one at Three Mile Resthouse.  Again, drinking water is available as are separate toilet facilities.  And, a significant benefit is the ability to get out of the sun for a time.

At 8 miles from the river, after a tortuous series of switchbacks and a couple of tunnels, one arrives at the south rim where there is again plenty of water, plenty of toilets, restaurants and all of the “normal” amenities of life.  It seems almost impossible to have all of this available after what little one has had on the trail.

The hike is over.  It was akin to a life-changing experience.  The unforgettable highlight of the trip was the night under the stars in the Grand Canyon at Bright Angel Campground.  But the hike itself also was filled with memorable sights and sounds.  And I enjoyed the strong feeling of having joined with all of our American predecessors who conquered the wilderness that was America by walking to their future homes and building that home with their own hands.  It was indeed a feeling of awe and appreciation for those who settled the U.S., including my own ancestors.